Things That Suck
The Towel That Stopped Absorbing Water
Towels dry by capillary action between cotton loops, and softener, dryer sheets and hard water all coat those loops with something that repels the water they should be pulling in.

A towel that once soaked up everything eventually starts pushing water around instead. The cotton has not worn out. It has been coated with something working against it.
A towel works by capillary action
The absorbency of a towel comes almost entirely from its loops. Thousands of small cotton loops create narrow channels, and water climbs into those channels without being pushed.
Cotton fibres are hydrophilic, meaning water spreads across them readily rather than beading up. That spreading is what pulls the next drop in behind it.
Mass has surprisingly little to do with it. A heavy towel that has lost this behaviour will hold less water than a thin one that has kept it.
Softener works by coating the fibre
Fabric softeners deposit a thin layer of long-chain conditioning compounds onto the fabric. That layer is what makes the towel feel plush and reduces the scratchiness of dried cotton.
The same layer is water-repelling by design. It lowers the surface energy of the fibre, so water beads instead of spreading, and the capillary channels stop pulling.
The product is not failing. It is doing precisely what it promises, and absorbency is the thing being traded away in order to get the softness.
Dryer sheets take the same route
Sheets used in the tumble dryer carry a similar conditioning coating, released by heat and transferred onto whatever happens to be tumbling against them.
Because the transfer happens dry and unevenly, the buildup tends to be patchier, producing towels that absorb well in some places and repel water in others.
Layers accumulate. Each wash adds a little more, and nothing in a normal cycle is trying particularly hard to take the previous layer back off.
Hard water and detergent leave their own film
In hard water areas, calcium and magnesium react with detergent to leave deposits in the fabric, stiffening the loops and blocking the spaces between them.
Overdosing detergent makes this worse rather than better, because the excess is not rinsed away in a normal cycle and simply stays behind in the weave.
The result feels like wear. The towel is stiff, dull and unabsorbent, and none of that is the cotton itself actually degrading.
Removing the coating is mostly a matter of stopping
Because the problem is deposition rather than damage, the first step is ceasing to add more. Towels washed without softener recover a good deal of their behaviour over several cycles.
Hot washes and an acidic rinse help strip existing residue, which is why vinegar appears in every piece of laundry folklore ever written on the subject.
What none of this recovers is the loop structure once it has been genuinely abraded flat. At that point the towel really is finished, and no rinse fixes geometry.
Questions readers ask
Does using an independent repairer void my warranty?
In several jurisdictions a manufacturer cannot void cover simply because an independent repair was carried out, unless that repair caused the fault. Check local rules.
Why is a repair quote as expensive as a new one?
Service processes usually replace whole modules rather than components, and pricing is set against a business built on new units. Independent repair is often cheaper.
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